How to Install a Raspberry Pi Inside an Ender 3 S1 (Pro) 3D Printer for OctoPrint and More

Are you tired of dealing with tangled cables and the hassle of keeping your Raspberry Pi securely connected to your Creality Ender 3 S1 (Pro)? This guide will show you how to embed a Raspberry Pi directly into your 3D printer’s case, creating a cleaner, more reliable setup for running OctoPrint (Klipper, or whatever you prefer).

For a long time, I used OctoPi installed on a Raspberry Pi connected to my Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro 3D printer. However, I eventually decided to make this setup more convenient by embedding the Raspberry Pi directly into the printer’s case. Having the Raspberry Pi sitting nearby with two cables—one for power and the other for connecting to the printer via USB—caused frequent issues. Many times, I accidentally bumped the cables or the Raspberry Pi itself, which would often fall off the table, even during an active print.

When I looked for a proper guide on how to install the Raspberry Pi inside the printer, I could only find bits and pieces of information. From these, I figured out how to set it up, and I decided to create a complete guide for anyone else who wants to do the same.

There are two ways to connect the Raspberry Pi inside the Ender 3 S1 printer. The first method is using the internal USB port, and the second is connecting it to the serial terminal port. I chose the first method because it seemed simpler, and that’s the method I’ll be explaining in this guide.

What You’ll Need:

1. Soldering Iron and Soldering Skills: The most important requirement is a soldering iron and the ability to use it. Disclaimer: the author is not responsible for any damage that may result from your actions. If you’re not confident in your soldering skills, it might be best not to proceed.
2. Raspberry Pi: For OctoPrint, the ideal option is the Raspberry Pi Zero 2, though you can use more powerful models as well. The older Zero 1 is not officially supported; I tried it, and while it sort of works, it’s slow and OctoPrint often encounters issues on it.
3. MicroUSB Data Cable (for Zero2 or USB-A for other Raspberries): You’ll need to cut a piece of cable with a USB connector and solder it to pin connectors to connect it to the printer’s motherboard. Make sure to use a data cable with four wires, not just a charging cable with only two wires.
4. 24V to 5V Buck Converter (optional): This is to power the Raspberry Pi from the printer’s 24V power supply. I used this one (affiliate link). There is an alternative method to connect without a buck converter, which I’ll cover as well.
5. 3-Pin Connectors (Male and Female): These are needed for secure connections.

Let’s Get Started:

1. Locate USB connector spot

Disassemble the printer by unscrewing the bottom panel, and locate the motherboard. The spot for the internal USB port should look like the image below. If your motherboard doesn’t have this port, unfortunately, this guide won’t work for you.

2. Solder USB Connector

Now unscrew and remove the motherboard to solder any 4-pin connector onto it, or you can simply use four individual pins, as I did. Once the connectors are soldered in place, screw the motherboard back into place.

Prepare a USB data cable

Next, we need to prepare the USB cable. Take any MicroUSB data cable and cut off the connector, leaving about 20–30 cm of cable. We’ll need to solder three of the four wires to the connector or to individual pins, as I did.

1. Ground (black)
2. Data+ (green)
3. Data- (white)

The fourth wire, Power+ (red), should not be connected.

As an easier alternative option you can buy ready to use cable (Affiliate link) or somewhere else, but remember not to connect power (red) wire.

Powering Raspberry Pi

If your Raspberry Pi doesn’t have a soldered GPIO header, we can solder two pins to provide power at 5V. Use pin 6 for Ground and either pin 2 or 4 for Power+.

Finally we need to decide how to power the Raspberry Pi inside the printer case. The printer’s power supply provides 24V, so if you have a 24V to 5V buck converter or can get one, it’s best to use it and connect directly to the printer’s power supply.

The second option is to use power from the serial terminal connector, which has a 5V output on the first two pins. However, check the polarity first. I tried this option, and it worked, but I’m unsure of the terminal’s power capacity and whether it can handle powering both the motherboard and the Raspberry Pi simultaneously. Therefore, I can’t fully recommend this option. If you have additional information about this setup or own experience, feel free to share it in the comments.

And the final result looks like this:

If you don’t plan to add a camera to your Raspberry Pi, you can finish the installation at this point and start using OctoPi without a camera. Don’t forget to check that the Raspberry Pi recognizes the printer before reassembling the case. The next step will be connecting a camera and mounting it on the printing bed.

Adding a Camera to the Printer Bed (Optional)

For some time, I was searching for a neat solution to add a camera to the Raspberry Pi installed inside the Ender 3 S1 printer—one that wouldn’t require drilling holes in the printer’s case for the camera cable and would allow the camera to be securely mounted. Fortunately, I found such a solution, and that’s what I’ll share next.

Why Do We Need a Camera?

What Will Be Needed:

1. The Camera
   You’ll need a camera compatible with the Raspberry Pi that uses the CSI interface. I recommend using a wide-angle lens camera (120–130 degrees) without autofocus. Autofocus can shift during printing as it tries to track the moving printer head, reducing video quality.
   • I use a budget-friendly 5-megapixel OV5647 camera (AliExpress Affiliate link) with a 130-degree wide-angle lens.
   • Alternatively, for higher image quality consider cameras with a Sony IMX219 (AliExpress Affiliate link) sensor (if you get issues setting up this camera in OctoPi, check this post).
   • Official Raspberry Pi cameras are also a good option, though they tend to be more expensive.
2. A Long CSI Cable for the Camera
   • For Raspberry Pi 2, 3, and 4, it’s easy to find a single long cable available for purchase. I recommend to get 80–100 cm long cable.
   • For Raspberry Pi Zero 2 and Raspberry Pi 5, a thinner cable is used, and I couldn’t find one longer than 50 cm. However, there’s a solution: you can connect multiple cables together. I’ll show you how to do this later.
3. Camera Mount
   Since we already have a 3D printer, you can print a custom mount for the camera.
4. (Optional) M2 Screws and Nuts
   Four M2 screws with matching nuts can be used to secure the camera to the mount. Alternatively, you can use thread or other fastening methods.

Printing the Camera Mount

For printing the camera mount, I used PETG filament, but PLA or ABS should also work fine. Additionally, I’ve included an optional model for an extra joint for the camera mount, which can be useful if you need a wider range of camera positioning.
You can find my 3D models for the mount on Tinkercad or Thingiverse.

Printing Settings:

• Supports: Required only for printing the bolt. Use Concentric Pattern Supports for better results. No supports are needed for other parts.
• Infill:
  • 100% for all parts except the optional joint.
  • For the optional joint, you can use 20% infill.
• Other Settings: Adjust based on your filament and printer preferences. Standard layer height and temperatures for your filament type should work well.

Preparing the Camera Cable for Raspberry Pi Zero 2 or Raspberry Pi 5

As mentioned earlier, for these Raspberry Pi models, you will likely need to assemble the cable from several parts. This can be done quite easily by ordering Cable Extension Boards (AliExpress Affiliate link1, link2). You’ll need one or two boards with 15-pin, 1.0 mm pitch connectors.

However, there is an important point to note: you cannot simply use two standard Raspberry Pi cables (the white 15-pin to 15-pin cable and the orange 22-pin to 15-pin cable). This is because the standard white Raspberry Pi camera cable has a reversed layout, while the orange cable has a forward layout. Connecting a reversed cable to a forward cable directly will result in mismatched pins, and the connection will not work. To solve this, you’ll need a third cable with a reversed layout. By connecting all three cables together, you’ll achieve a working configuration.

Option 1: Using Two Reversed and One Forward Direction Cables (Tested Solution)

1. A long white camera cable (AliExpress Affiliate link) (at least 50 cm, 15-pin to 15-pin, reversed) connects to:
2. Extension Board 1 (AliExpress Affiliate link1, link2), which then connects to:
3. A short white camera cable (AliExpress Affiliate link) (15-pin to 15-pin, reversed), which connects to:
4. Extension Board 2, which finally connects to:
5. A short orange camera cable (AliExpress Affiliate link) (22-pin to 15-pin, forward).

All three cables must have reversed pin layouts (the standard type for Raspberry Pi). This is the method I used and personally verified.

Option 2: Using two Forward Direction Cables (Simpler Setup)

If you’re ordering cables anyway, you can simplify the process by purchasing one 15-pin (1.0 mm pitch) flat cable with a forward direction pin layout and connect it with standard orange camera cable. These are available on AliExpress. In this case, you only need two cables:

1. A long white cable with forward direction (AliExpress Affiliate link) (at least 50 cm long, 15-pin to 15-pin, 1.0 mm pitch) connects to:
2. Extension Board, which connects to:
3. A short orange camera cable (22-pin to 15-pin).

I have not personally tested this option, as forward direction cables were not available to me at the time. However, this method should work and is slightly simpler if you’re purchasing new cables.

Routing the Camera Cable

To neatly route the camera cable inside the printer’s case, you will need to remove the print bed by unscrewing six screws from the bed rail: two in the front and four in the back. Refer to the photos below for guidance.

Next, locate the pass-through gap near the center of the printer’s frame. This gap provides a good pathway for the cable. Before routing the cable, double-check the orientation of the cable’s contacts to ensure the camera faces the printer bed correctly.

Steps for Cable Routing:

1. Pass the Cable Through the Gap:
   Thread the cable through the gap near the center of the frame, ensuring the connectors are oriented properly.
2. Route the Cable Under the Bed Rail:
   Position the cable under the bed rail, threading it between the two front screws.
3. Reattach the Bed Rail:
   Secure the rail on top of the cable, making sure it lies flat without any sharp bends or kinks.
4. Leave Enough Slack for Movement:
   Ensure the cable has enough slack to allow the print bed to move freely to its extreme positions without tugging on the cable.
   • In my setup, I used a composite cable where the long segment was 50 cm. I pulled it out as far as possible so that the inner end reached the Extension Board without excessive tension.
5. Routing the cable inside the printer’s case:
   When routing the cable inside the printer’s case, make sure to secure it properly and isolate the contacts of the Extension Boards (if used) to prevent any accidental contact with the metal parts of the case. This will help avoid short circuits and ensure stable operation. I used hot glue to secure the parts.

Final Thoughts

Adding a Raspberry Pi with a camera to your Ender 3 S1 (Pro) printer significantly enhances the functionality of your 3D printer. With OctoPi and a camera, you now can monitor your prints remotely, create stunning timelapse videos, and improve the overall safety and convenience of your printing process.

If you encounter any challenges or have tips to share, feel free to contribute your experience in the comments below. Happy printing, and enjoy your upgraded setup!

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